During my journey as a digital nomad, one of the most memorable experiences took place in Aveiro. Known as the "Venice of Portugal," this city carries on the charming history of medieval European ports. Cruising along the unique banana boats known as Moliceiro, one can leisurely appreciate the vibrant fisherman's houses lining the riverbanks.
In 2021, I was fortunate to meet a Portuguese DJ online and accepted his invitation to join the music festival project in Aveiro. During my stay, I resided at a place known as VIC // Aveiro Arts House (VIC), conveniently located just a 5-minute stroll from the canal. Despite its unassuming exterior, this establishment is a renowned centre of culture and art inside, providing facilities that span from a movie theatre reminiscent of "Cinema Paradiso" to cutting-edge electronic equipment; from antique furniture tracing back to the last century to modern art collections ——- A historic mansion revitalized by the touch of modern artists.
Hugo Branco, the grandson of the esteemed Portuguese artist Vasco Branco, is the current proprietor of VIC Aveiro Art House. Once a globetrotting DJ, Hugo found himself drawn back to his childhood home following his grandfather's passing, driven by a steadfast resolve to safeguard the ancestral residence from decay. Following five years of careful restoration efforts, VIC emerged rejuvenated, gaining recognition as a revered national cultural treasure.
Vasco Branco considered Aveiro as the "city of women," as women resemble water - gentle yet resilient, expansive yet delicate - mirroring the characteristics of Aveiro. He said, "No words can accurately describe the beauty of the sunset on the canal, no pigments can paint the interplay of light and shadow in the city. The winding roads unfold before my eyes, the endless blue sky above, the salty taste in the air, I'm just feeling my senses." Fascinatingly, my grandfather was born in Yancheng (translated as "Salt City"), China, while Aveiro is also known as the "Salt City." It feels as though there's a mysterious force at play that led me here, to delve into the life story of this legendary figure from Portugal.
VIC Aveiro Art House spans five floors, attracting people from diverse backgrounds around the world: Santi, a masterful astrologer and musician from Argentina; Lili, a local artist who recently ended a decade-long relationship; Reneta, a charming and adorable street performer; Skier & Yeti, a rock band from Serbia; alongside a wandering poet from Israel, a painter from Paris, a hairstylist from Italy, and many others.
Every day, we gathered in the communal kitchen to cook and share meals or relaxed on the balcony with coffee and casual conversations. Work hours often saw brainstorming sessions on how to elevate VIC and promote local tourism, while evenings were spent watching films, listening to music, or hosting parties in the underground cinema.
The highlight was an unprecedented music festival we successfully organised, followed by music tours in Lisbon and Porto. I also had the chance to try various exotic mushrooms in Aveiro, experience the unique Christmas traditions of Portugal with Hugo and his mum, celebrate New Year's on a boat from dawn till dusk, perform at a local pub with a Portuguese musician, and even have some unexpected romantic encounters.
When I first arrived in Aveiro, I was a bit disappointed by the lack of conveniences of a big city, thinking I would return to Lisbon after finishing the music festival project. However, I ended up staying for five months. Local friends told me that although Aveiro may not have the fame of Lisbon and Porto, it has a unique charm. Anyone who has lived here will eventually come back, especially to VIC Aveiro Art House.
When I returned to Aveiro last year, stepping off the train felt like coming home. Knowing a group of like-minded and wild spirits awaited me there brought happiness that online connections simply couldn't match. It's in those face-to-face encounters in the physical world where we truly experience the genuine and delightful moments of life.
In the famous Chinese TV drama "去有风的地方 | Meet Yourself," it's often said that people come and go, only able to stick around for a brief period after crossing paths. Life's a fleeting affair, and to my mind, the most authentic aspect lies in our human interactions.
It's important to appreciate the time we have with others and understand that saying goodbye is a normal part of life. As we go through life, we'll meet many different people, feel many emotions, and see many beautiful things. We should enjoy these experiences and get the most out of them while they're happening.
During my time at VIC, I encountered a girl whom Hugo mentioned had interned there two years prior and was known for her easy-going nature. However, when we first met, she seemed distant and reserved, particularly towards me. Despite this, she shared a close bond with Hugo. I shrugged it off, thinking, "If she doesn't want to talk, that's okay."
Later, while exercising outdoors, I ran into her taking a stroll. Out of courtesy, I invited her for a coffee, anticipating a potentially awkward interaction. To my surprise, she accepted, leading to an unexpected four-hour-long heartfelt conversation.
At first, I felt a bit uneasy, thinking she wasn't interested in conversing with me. I kept the discussion light, focusing on safe topics such as the weather and food, intending to wrap up the coffee quickly and leave. However, something shifted—maybe it was the pleasant weather or some questions I raised that struck a chord with her. Slowly, she began to open up, sharing her personal experiences. I discovered the hurdles she had faced, including a misdiagnosed leg injury that resulted in months of wearing a cast and difficulty walking, challenges with obtaining a Portuguese visa, and the recent loss of her mother, which had left her in mourning.
Listening to her story left me stunned. I realised that any one of those things happening to me would be a difficult process to recover from, let alone all three at once. And then she apologised to me, saying sorry for not getting along with me properly, but she really didn't have the energy to meet new friends right now, and she hoped I could understand. I was on the verge of tears. Despite everything she was going through, she still had the empathy to consider my feelings, while I had foolishly labelled her without understanding her situation.
The profound lesson I took away from this experience is the importance of showing kindness to those around you, as you never know the struggles they may be enduring. It taught me not to assume that things will always unfold as expected. Moreover, it revealed to me the resilience and strength inherent in humanity when faced with life's challenges. I now firmly believe in the power of time to heal wounds and in the limitless potential we possess to rebuild our lives, as long as we have breath in our lungs.
As I move forward, I feel deeply grateful for the valuable lessons learned and the meaningful connections forged during my time there: to greet every encounter with kindness, confront uncertainty with courage, and cherish every opportunity for growth and understanding. While Aveiro holds the title of the "Venice of Portugal," for me, it symbolises much more—a wellspring of inspiration and a reminder of the boundless potential inherent in all of us.
This morning, I stumbled upon a raw audio clip from my time in Aveiro, capturing a rehearsal session with a Portuguese musician before our impromptu performance at a local bar. Rediscovering this material sparked reflections on my experiences in Aveiro and fueled the creation of this article.
Excellent !!!!
Then you are a rare bird indeed ! , you may have synesthesia or be a synesthete...so lucky you ! - you are in the company of many famous artists, composers and writers !
listening to the Solfeggio frequencies induces in me a highly creative state :)
You are an artist.
WOW, very nice post and the red hair ! awesome.
And what a nice place Portugal is Camilla.
It is great to see that you are having a great time in Portugal working as a digital nomad; traveling, meeting and connecting with people, recording and sharing you experiences.
You are certainly brave to do this life style -- it is not for everyone though. :)
As long as you are happy and having the time of your life.
Thanks.